In english xP
Bom galera... eu achei muito útil isso aqui, mas é necessário conhecimento intermediário de inglês. As informações aqui foram todas pegas de um fórum internacional (não lembro o nome agora)..
Espero que gostem!
Controls: just because i am so happy to have found a way to save power with my S1:
i like keeping the camera powered on when taking a series of pictures (e.g. at a concert, a lecture, a talk etc.) but i was
not very happy to see the EVF or the display on all the time wasting valuable power.
what am i doing now? in the menu (mode for taking pictures) i chose the ""sleep"" mode for the jump button (the button with
the square and the arrow) on the rear side of the camera. this means whenever i press that button now i toggle between EVF/
display on and off."
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"Controls: I find using the Shortcut button quite handy. Give it a try if you haven't set one (there are seven choices).
My G3 didn't have this feature, but I like the ability to set White Balance (it's one function I forget to change often) with
one touch of the shortcut button.
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I agree, John: the shortcut button is a great feature.
I use it practically on every shot for locking the auto exposure. If I have a contrasty subject, I select a framing that
includes more lighter areas or more darker areas, depending on how bright I want my main subject to be. Example: Person in the
middle of the frame looks too bright in the viewfinder; pan up to the sky (or bright trees) a bit, lock the exposure with the
shortcut button, pan back to the person, see if he's no longer too bright. Repeat if necessary until subject brightness looks
good. Focus and shoot.
This sounds a lot more complicated than it is in practice. It's actually quite intuitive and direct. Admittedly, though, it
works best for methodical shooting, not snapshots. And I find it faster than exposure compensation via the function buttons.
(Tip: To try this out, set the metering pattern to ""spot"" so that exposure changes become much more visible and dramatic.
You can actually hear the lens' iris opening and closing. In practice, though, I prefer the integrated metering pattern.
One limitation, though: this method is no good for series shooting since the locked exposure is lost once the shutter release
button is pressed. Or does anyone know a workaround for this? (On my old analogue Canon T-90, the exposure remains locked no
matter how many frames you shoot -- just as long as you keep the shutter release button pressed to the first pressure point.
Keeping the shortcut button pressed on the S-1 doesn't work.)"
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"Controls: For switching from LCD to Viewfinder, just use the window to switch (open to use the lcd, close not completely
will switch to the viewfinder). It is much faster. At least for me, that's how I do it. And I use the Custom © for another
set up of my preferences (so I can switch from day light to low light, or outdoors and indoors, or whatever)"
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"Controls:
If you dont release your finger after you shoot the pic, the photo stays on the LCD/EVF forever.
This allows you to set the photo preview to 0 secs. This makes it a lot easier to take actions shots.
If you ever want to preview a pic, just keep your finger pressed
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And if you press the ""Display"" button before you press and hold the shutter you get the histogram straight away
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then you can let go and decide to trash or even to add sound...."
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"Controls: I don't know whether this Tip has been mentioned, but the S1 P Mode (Program) allows program shift for exposure.
Here's how:
In P mode, when you half press the shutter and a combination of Aperture and Speed are diplayed, press the Exposure Lock
button (* is displayed on LCD or EVF). Toggle the four way controller left or right to change the combination of aperture/
speed without changing the exposure. Note: this will not work with the flash ON.
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Hey that's a good tip. Now I can increase DOF without going to AV?
After > 3000 pics with the S1...
Serves me right for not reading the manual.
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I haven't tried the AEL yet. Good idea. I like to use FE lock (flash exposure lock) it seems the flash recycles faster but
then again maybe I just want it to be faster and it is all in my head :-)"
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Focus: I know it's S1's feeature to allow me freely select the focus point. But That really takes time with the omni
selector. For still objects OK, but for portrait, my people get bored while I am trying to get the focus point right. I end up
with just use the center focus. I first put the people in the center and half press to focuse, then recompose the pic so my
people is at 1/3 of the pic, then I shoot.
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Same here. IMO, its far faster to center focus and recompose than to play around with adjusting the focus spot chosen by the
digicam. You're already busy with checking focus let alone checking where it focused on."
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"Focus:
I tried zooming to 380mm then locking focus at something in the distance. The camera stays on focus after that unless you zoom
back all the way to 380 mm. It seems to have problems focusing at all with that lock on if you go beyond say 300 mm. But this
does of course mean that you've now got a 8x zoom camcorder which stays in focus all the time. Works for me…"
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"Focus:
Anyone find the S1's is not as sharp in the higher f-stops? Seems to perform well within ~f4- f6.
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My understanding - from an article I read previously (don't ask when or where because I can't recall the specifics) - stated
that a lens' sharpest points are generally 2 stops from the highest/lowest. I can't say if that meant the second stop from end
or 2 stops in between but in either case, your observation would ring true.
Assuming the first theory (and the validity of the original article, same lighting/situation etc...)
f2.8, f3.1/3.2, f3.5, f4.0, f4.5, f5.0, f5.6, f6.3, f7.1, f8.0
... the sharpest f-stops would be between f3.5 and f6.3
With the second interpretation it would mean the sharpest points would lie between f4.0 and f5.6
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Look at this thread
http://forums.dpreview.com/... .../read.asp?forum=1010&message=9014326
seems applicable for all Canon camera as long as you resize your pics into the resolution that camera can save. When you want
to do presentation and slideshow with edited pics on a TV set, this could be very useful."
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"Focus:
Could anyone babytalk me into applying the following low light trick ?
I have a french documentation, and I'm not sure of what ""set manual focus to 10'"" means
And I'm so frustrated with low light focusing I think I might just return it for an olympus UZ (had a C730 UZ just previously,
didn't have that kind of issues...).
Thanks for your help,
Fabrice
> Low light focus problems?
> Use hyperfocal. Use Av, set to f2.8, set manual focus to 10', zoom
> out all the way and *everything* from 4.5' to infinity will be in
> focus. No focusing needed so it'll be fast. Try in a completely
> dark room. Save as Custom setting and you're all set for
> Halloween-type pics. If the subject is closer than 4.5', you
> should be able to focus on it the 'regular' way.
>
xxxx
Fabrice,
10' = 10 feet = 3 meters, plus ou moins, ...
Hope this helps"
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"Focus: Maybe this is a tip?.......AF is analagous to auto transmission - if you never learn to drive a stick shift, what
will you do when an occasion arises that you have to?
Some of us grew up before range finders on cameras, and had to estimate distance. Then came RF, which made life easier if
still two-step. Then coupled RF to lens, incl SLR. Finally AF. But I do a lot of action shooting with my film cameras, and
never use AF.
Turn off the AF and use the camera without it for extended periods of time. Film is not an issue so you can make lots of
mistakes. In the process, you will come to feel comfortable and quite proficient without it.
Final point...these little cameras have such depth of field that in most cases below five times zoom, you can leave them set
at an estimated distance and everything will still be in focus. And at higher zooms where you are much farther away from the
subject, an rough estimate will still be OK.
And I try to explain to folk that just because it has 10X, that doesn't mean you should be lazy and use it when you can move
closer without a problem. Extended zoom always degrades the basic image somewhat, with the additional impact of camera
movement."
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"Focus: After your shot don't release your finger completely, you'll still have the green bracket ready for the next shot so
you can shoot away as many pictures as you want and time it without loss of pre-focus or freeze. Practice it works.
Review off. (remember you can hold to view your last picture)
That's found ... Menu button/Review/Off"
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TEM MUITO MAIS DE ONDE EU TIREI ISSO. SE HOUVER INTERESSE, EU POSTO LOGO EM SEGUIDA! 
